Multiple Personalities.

We touched down on Laotian soil yesterday, and with this physical change has come a sense of intense inner calm that I have only intermittently experienced in almost 6 weeks. Our sleep last night was deep and satisfying, settling my mind frame to process all that transpired in our cross-country Vietnamese tour. 

After departing from Hoi An, and our fellow travelling family, we continued our journey into central and northern Vietnam where we stocked up on our friend fill after meeting up with the Davies squad. Together, we pounded the pavements of Da Nang, Hue, Ninh Binh and Hanoi. From dawn, to far past dusk, we sucked up and soaked in the culture, foods and moments, all the while, revelling in the good fortune of finding ourselves in a foreign country with the best of comrades. It was surreal and we thank them for journeying across the globe to share in this journey. 

Although relatively close in proximity, the essence of the cities we visited were defined by characters and features that were uniquely compelling.

Transitioning out of picture-perfect Hoi An, our first impressions of Da Nang were underwhelming and lacklustre. It was the off-season for tourism so the would-be energy and personality of the oceanside town were devoid. However, in a short time, we came to appreciate its chill beach vibe and iconic gems that were located in the bowels of its mountains and above its cloud line. Both the Marble Mountains and Ba Na Hills offered sights that even the wildest of imaginations could not dream up. 

The Marble Mountains are a network of caves, tunnels, towers and pagodas which instantly ignited a child-like wonder in us all. As we ascended into the “Gates of Heaven” (Thuy Son Mountain) and descended into the nine floors of Buddhist hell (Am Phu Cave) we happened upon countless Buddhist and Hindu grottos. Some were lit with kitschy strings of lights while others were illuminated by the sun’s rays which poured through crevices. It is here where we lifted our faces to receive the “good fortunes of the Gods” in the glints of light. 

Next stop, Ba Na Hills. Although I would never say that amusement parks are my jam, our visit to this place was spectacular for reasons not even remotely related to rides. The journey to get there by cable car and the golden bridge leading to a quiet temple retreat above the clouds suspended all senses into a tranquil-like state which lasted the entire day. 

Here’s the other perspective of Ba Na Hills from our Oscar:

Did you know the world's longest cable car is located in Da Nang, Vietnam? Last week I got to ride it when I went to Sun World, an amusement park. My friend Benny, came to Vietnam to visit us, and we went together. Travelling on the cable car was exciting because it was high, fast and we went above the clouds. At the top there was a castle that had a ton of rides. The first ride we went on was swings that spun super fast. Then, we went on a ride that looks similar to the one that is at my cottage in Collingwood. It was like a rollercoaster, really fast but you have brakes. The best ride was the one and only drop zone - it went up and down soo quickly. It was very scary and I almost peed myself. I loved Sun World and I hope that I can come back one day!      

Marble Mountains

Ba Na Hills

Beach Bumming

Despite the brevity of our stay, Hue was instantly memorable. From morning till dusk, it is basked in an effervescent pinky glow that lit it up in a dreamy way. Situated along the banks of the Perfume River, Hue’s temperatures are thick and steamy with its only respite in the form of thin wisps of wind that leave you longing for more. At sunset, the city turns into a bit of a party, the kind of place that might make one want to spontaneously get a tattoo on a whim! It is here where we found ourselves nestled snugly on a french balcony fully and tragically immersed in cheesy love ballads where the only thing to do was join in and sing, sing, sing.

The Imperial City of Hue

Our next stop on tour took us to Ninh Binh, a small city located in a rural area that is characterized by rice fields and towering karst formations. It is here where we let our hair down to embrace the peaceful, free-spirited vibes that beckoned us. Zipping through the country-side by motorbike, quietly conquering the Lying Dragon Mountain (a steep 500-stair climb), and gliding down the Sao Khe river (in Trang An) and through its limestone caves, left us feeling “filled up” with all that is good. No photos will ever do justice to the overwhelming sense of peace that was felt while standing along the edge of flowing waters while sending echoes into the massive mountain abyss that surrounded us.

The Lying Dragon Mountain Climb

Some of us were happier than others about making it to the top! 

The Sao Khe River

This cave was about 1000 metres long -

we had to duck our heads many times to move through it

Riding through the Ninh Binh (Tam Coc) countryside 

Hanoi was a slap to the face that woke us from the dream of Ninh Binh. Without a second to catch our breath, we were instantly swept up into the constant state of commotion and racket that embodied the capital of Vietnam. As we huffed and stuffed our way through narrow, dilapidated alleyways to locate our homestay, I recalled berating myself on a poor accommodation choice. By the end of the day, I realized we were actually located in an affluent area of town and our tunnelled entrance was an upscale retirement community! Schlepping through the maze of Hanoi’s Old Quarters requires one to be acutely aware of what’s in front (mainly scooters), above (wires) and below (puddles of ???) you at all times. Although I can’t claim it a favourite, I can say that Hanoi exudes an eclectic charisma that can only be appreciated once one has acclimatized to its obvious grittier vibe. It makes the moments, where you “happen upon something”, even sweeter such as the deeply gratifying “massa”(ges) we received from Midori Spa, an organization that employs visually impaired masseuses to deliver top-notch treatments. It is also here where Dan ran down his dream of learning more about the specialized art process of lacquer while visiting a local University professor's home gallery, and where we purchased our first piece of authentic Vietnamese artwork (Tran Thieu Nam).

Our apartment entrance...😟 Luckily it was much nicer on the inside

Train Street - The train that never came! 

Egg Coffee at one of the founding restaurants 

All households pay tribute to their ancestors with shrines such as these 

Farewell moments in time 

Lots of street art & oddly true phrases everywhere

Enjoying a Korean BBQ dinner in Vietnam 

In our efforts to be honest about our experiences, the intensity of this portion of travel took its toll on our children who struggled in their own way to take some control of their environment. At times, it was easy to get a little “H-anoied”! Understandably, it is difficult to process, and at times appreciate, all these amazing experiences when they are mushed atop of each other in quick succession. As we are now a few days removed, and the dust has settled, the deep and authentic questions and connections have begun to pop over dinner time conversations and while we saunter down the streets. This is the gold nugget we have been waiting for.

Finally, I would be remiss without acknowledging how magical it was to also travel with my mom, my sister and her family throughout the first leg of our trip. And although it required flexibility, patience, and a respectful acknowledgment that we all live our lives on fairly different frequencies, we came together in the very best of ways.